Praha/Prague (13-15 june 2009)

Although the existence of the website Wizz Air Sucks predicted flight-mayhem, I have no reason to complain about this Hungarian low cost carrier. Arrived at Prague airport half an hour before schedule and was warmly welcomed by my charming hostess Viera. Quick lunch and installment in her appartment (which she shares with the equally charming Martina) near Novodvorská Plaza and off for a first impression of Prague. A thousand plans were forged for this first day and a thousand plans were abandoned. But I very much liked this crazy city-hopping by foot/bus/subway/tram, which proved to be a perfect teaser to explore the city in more detail during the next couple of days. Drinking good coffee in a cosy corner at Cafe Kafíčko, located on Míšeňská-street, very near the famous Charles Bridge.















Discomforting statues of huge crawling babies attract our eye. More improvised exploring of the city and a not so great encounter with a czech dumpling-menu. African beats lured us onto the Střelecký Ostrov-island in the middle of the Vltava (or Moldau), where a free benefit-festival for Africa was taking place. Drinking a couple of czech Rebel beers while African percussionists and a international mix of dancers do their thing, sitting on a bench just meters away from the shores of the Vltava while night falls : it doesn't get any better than this. Next band on stage : the czech pop/soul-band Toxique, with the eccentric robes of leadsinger Klara Vytisková as weird eye-candy. Time to cross town and enter the northern Praha 7-district, a cheaper district where tourists seldom dwell at night. Destination : the awesome club Cross, of which the industrial design made my jaw drop. "Skanking in the name of the Lord" on the music of the czech ska/dub-band CCTV All Stars. A very cool Dark side of the moon-shirt on the body of the trumpeter. Speaking of shirts : a local dude complemented me on my shoshin/grimrobes-tourshirt of Sunn O))) (which tour landed a couple of weeks ago in the Sacre Coeur-church in Prague). It's a small world !








The weather reached perfection for this second day in lovely Prague, which was mostly spent in the vicinity of the very impressive Pražský hrad (or Prague castle), one of the biggest castles in the world. Situated entirely within the structures of this humongous castle lies the massive St. Vitus Cathedral, an awe-inspiring gothic Catholic church. We spotted some fantastic gargoyles on the rooftops of the cathedral, among which a raving rockstar avant-la-lettre (click on the picture for a more detailed view). This area is probably the number one attraction of Prague, and it's easy to understand why. The shear vastness of the complex is astounding.















Not only the buildings leave their mark on the visitor, also the beautiful grounds and parks surrounding the area prove to be highly enticing. A relaxing long walk leads us through neatly trimmed gardens. Taking the northern route, we encounter the Belvedere. The fact that it's a bit worn down, adds extra glamour to this fine example of Italian renaissance-architecture. The famous "Singing well" in its gardens whispers interesting conversations. These conversations continue as we walk further down the path. It's a warm and sunny sunday in Prague and many people decide to spend the day in this green area of the city, which is called Letenské sady (or Letná Park). Where once a giant monument in honour of Josef Stalin looked over the city, now stands the huge Metronome. Although erected as recently as in 1991, this monument already lost much of its splendour and is nowadays mostly a skatespot and offers a scenic vista. Drinking a beer in the beergardens of Letná Park is a must. A relaxing atmosphere prevails as many people walk their dogs, skate or smoke a spliff. Following the Vltava even further, we encounter a very impressive building from the communistic era (see top). We cross the river on the Libeňský Bridge, thus entering the Praha 8-district. The inner human is strengthened in the excellent Pivovarský Klub on Křižíkova-street. Love at first taste with the Bohemian Black Lager, brewed by Pivovar Herold Březnice. Some shots and beers later we decide to call it a day and head homeward-bound.










Again a very warm day in Prague, where the sun is slowly but surely beaten by thunderous clouds, fraught with electricity. First a walk through Staré Město, the oldest part of the city, where the Pražský orloj (or astronomical clock), mounted on the southern wall of the City Hall, can be admired. The old town square (or Staroměstské náměstí) buzzes even more than usual when a wedding party passes. From here it's a short walk to Josefov, formerly the Jewish ghetto of Prague. Two pivotal items cannot be avoided when visiting Prague : Franz Kafka and the close intermixture with Jewish history. The latter was explored with a extendend visit to several sites that are part of the Jewish museum in Prague. Throughout a couple of synagogues (Maisel, Spanish, Pinkas and Klausen) several exhibitions about Jewish customs and history can be visited. Definitely worthwile, although rather sterile and dusty. Highlight of the tour is the old Jewish Cemetery : a mishmash of old tombstones. The bones of Rabbi Löw - according to legend the creator of the infamous Golem - rest here. Crossing the Vltava on the Charles Bridge, which is protected by three bridge towers and decorated with thirty statues. One of the most notable of these statues is the one of Saint Jan Nepomucký, who was tortured to death and thrown into the Vltava on the very spot where today his statue heavily contrasts against ominous clouds.















After a coffee in our favourite little corner in Cafe Kafíčko we head out to the Franz Kafka Museum. Divided into two sections (existential space and imaginary topography), this excellent exhibition is a must-see for everyone who has taken an interest in Prague's greatest writer. A refreshing and creative display which contrasts with the stale approach in Josefov. Time to leave the splendour of the Praha 1-district and enter a different world in the Praha 3-district, where the Žižkov television tower dominates the skyline. Again we are confronted with the theme of crawling babies, who seem to infest the tower. Warm raindrops make us seek shelter in the U Sadu-pub, situated on the Škroupovo-square. A good meal, accompanied by good beers and shots and talks, make our cheeks flushed. Again we dive into the belly of the city, where the Prague Subway guides us home.









It's always best not to outstay one's welcome, so the next morning I bid beautiful Prague and its endearing hostess farewell. Many thanks to Viera for making me feel at home from the get go and for whom I've taken the liberty of writing this post in english. Ďakujem ti !